I flew to Cape Crozier, the eastern most point on Ross Island, to visit Wilson’s Igloo, a stone igloo built by Edward Wilson, Birdie Bowers and Apsley Cherry-Garrard during the 1911 Worst Journey in the World expedition. At that time the only known emperor penguin rookery was located at Cape Crozier, and they were attempting to collect emperor penguin eggs. It was thought that studying the embryo would provide significant evolutionary clues linking primitive birds and dinosaurs to modern flying birds. The journey was made in mid-winter, in June & July, the coldest and darkest time of year, with temperatures reaching 70 degrees below zero, and 24 hour darkness. The journey was made at that time of year in those conditions because that is when the emperor penguins have their chicks. That they survived the journey is no small miracle, dragging 800 lb sledges through deep snow in pitch dark, crossing crevasses, glaciers, sea ice and mountains with only the occasional light of the moon to guide them.
A hurricane strength blizzard struck the party when they were in this stone igloo, and it’s the telling of this story by Cherry-Garrard that makes this ruin significant. The roof was torn from the igloo, and their tent was carried away, leaving the 3 men stranded in the igloo enduring hurricane force winds and getting buried under snow for days. In the end they managed to collect three frozen eggs. There is a famous photograph of the three men taken by Ponting on their return to Cape Evans, and their faces tell the tale of the hard journey they endured. I highly recommend reading Cherry-Garrard’s account of their journey, and the entire Terra Nova expedition, in the Worst Journey in the World, one of the best travel and adventure stores ever written.
My experience at Cape Crozier was enough to convince me that it is a hostile and forbidding place. To arrive there is to feel like arriving at the end of the earth. The pilot landed the helicopter about a half kilometer from the igloo site, it was overcast with low clouds and flat light, but the winds were fairly light at about 5 mph. None of us had visited the site before, so we used GPS coordinates to locate the igloo, which is difficult to pick out from the surrounding landscape. Within five minutes of arriving at the igloo the wind started to pick up, and in ten minutes it was getting difficult to hold my camera steady. By fifteen minutes the pilot was urging us to leave, the wind was blowing at about 30 mph, strong enough to make it difficult to walk straight. We were supposed to stay at the site for an hour but were forced to retreat to the helicopter and make a hasty takeoff.
click pics for larger images
Full disclosure – a sign describing the site is placed right next to the igloo, and I mean almost inside the igloo, and I have photoshopped it out of a few of the images. IMHO the sign should not be so close to the ruin, and should certainly be moved away from the igloo to a distance that allows appreciation of this historic site without this unnecessary intrusion. It’s not like there is no other place to locate the sign! End of rant.